Idealist Micro D vs Turnaround 15min Mask
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clinique:
Turnaround 15-Minute Facial has a formula thats remarkably similar to the Turnaround Concentrate Visible Skin Renewer. Both contain several forms of silicones, which add significantly to each products texture and application. Both products also contain acetyl glucosamine, though as mentioned it shouldnt be relied on for exfoliation, and both products contain salicylic acid. Turnaround 15-Minute Facial is said to deliver the radiance and smoothness of microdermabrasion with significantly less irritation and stress. This viscous gel-cream does indeed make skin look smooth and radiant, but the way it accomplishes that is as far removed from microdermabrasion as salmon is from a chocolate chip cookie. The silicones and skin-identical ingredients in this product do smooth and plump skin, and the smoother skin is, the better it reflects light, thus appearing more radiant. Nothing in this facial, however, approximates what happens during a microdermabrasion procedure, where skin is mechanically polished using different materials and a controlled device. The amount of salicylic acid is too low (less than 0.5%) to exfoliate skin, though the products pH of 4 would have allowed that to occur if more salicylic acid were used. Consider this product if you are looking for a uniquely textured mask to treat normal to dry skin. The neutral face rating applies because this antioxidant-rich product is packaged in a jar, which will make the air-sensitive ingredients ineffective shortly after you open it.
estee lauder:
Idealist Micro-D Deep Thermal Refinisher is Estee Lauders contribution to the category of topical scrubs that are alleged to mimic the effect of microdermabrasion. Many similar scrubs (including the Dermapolish Treatment Cream scrub from Lauder-owned Prescriptives) contain the conventional ingredient polyethylene (ground-up plastic) as the exfoliating agent, and so does this one. But this one also includes the inorganic salt calcium chlo-ride, which is where the thermal part comes in. Lauder claims that the calcium chloride delivers a detoxifying thermal action, which is activated when Micro-D is applied to the skin. The process allows pores to open, preparing skin for detoxifying and refreshing action. Sidestepping the issue that pores cannot open (or close) like doors or windows, how can this simple salt detoxify them? What toxins are lurking in pores, anyway? No one has ever explained the never-ending myth that the skin or pores need to be purged of toxins. Id like to learn the name of just one toxin!
The truth is our pores are not harboring toxins that require a product like this to expel them. What happens when calcium chloride is mixed with water (Lauder recommends using this product on damp skin) is called an exothermic reaction. That means a chemical reaction (in this case, between water and calcium chloride) that generates heat. However, other than a brief sensation of warmth, this process brings no benefit to the skin. It certainly does not detoxify the skin or aid in minimizing pores, any more than a warm day does. If it does anything, the warm sensation just leaves the impression that the product is working. Instead, it is the scrub particles being massaged over the skin that loosen debris (dead skin cells and oil) from the surface of your pores, allowing it to be rinsed away. That will make skin feel smoother and look more even-toned, and can temporarily make pores smallerbut only because the buildup of dead skin cells and oil has been removed. Almost any topical scrub, including plain cornmeal, or even a washcloth can do this, while chemical exfoliants (such as glycolic and salicylic acids) surpass topical scrubs because they exfoliate more evenly and thoroughly without the mechanical abrasion.
Lauder has buffered the abrasive agents with silicones, and although this makes them more gentle on the skin, it can present some difficulty when you rinse the product. A small amount of jade powder is included, too, but these exotic additions dont add much to the results of Idealist Micro-D. It can add to the abrasiveness of the polyethylene and calcium chloride, but that isnt really necessary and can approach overkill if you use this scrub too often or too aggressively.
Overall, this is a pricey way to exfoliate, although if used with caution it can indeed produce silky-smooth skin. Idealist Micro-D would work best for normal to oily skin or slightly dry skin. Those with very dry skin would do better with a creamier scrub that does not contain calcium chloride, which can be a bit drying.
